
Class. 
Book 



. Vi % 



Copyright If. 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



The Work 
3jst The Gtarden 



BY/ 

JULIUS H. HUBER. 



CHICAGO. 

G. BROES ~VAN DORT. 

1903. 



COPYRIGHT 1902 BY 

JULIUS H. HUBER. 



THh LIBRARY OF 

CONGRESS, 

Tv^n Copies Received 

MAR 16 .1903 

Copy nght tiwy 
CLASS OU XXc No. 

$ i~ 0. 8 -> 

COPY B. 



<>°> 



^V 



* 



BY THE GERMAN-AMERICAN PRINTING CO. 
CHICAGO. 



INTRODUCTION. 

"Time flows from instants and of these, each one 
Should be esteemed as if it were alone ; 
Let it but slide into th' eternal main, 
No realms, no worlds can purchase it again." 

— Beaumont. 

The work in the Garden, which must be done 
*o achieve more or less success, depends upon the 
individual taste and desires, and according to the 
care and time devoted to this pleasurable work. 

If the small hints given in the following pages 
will create the pleasure derived from the work done 
it will not have been culled in vain, and to the ma- 
jority the help given, in properly caring for the 
garden, will be rewarded by the blooms and fruits 
garnered at all seasons. The patch may be small or 
large, the necessary devotion and love for assisting 
Nature will be amply repaid if the work is con- 
scientiously done. "Great things result from small 
beginnings." 

It certainly requires a certain amount of patience 
and time for the development of the labor expended, 
also be prepared for many disappointments and fail- 
ures, which often unaccountably occur in Nature's 
course, and with all our learning and scientific edu- 
cation can not entirely be overcome, but, by practical 



experience and not losing heart at the first failures, 
many a secret may be wrested from Nature's great 
storehouse by close observation of its immutable 
laws. 

May the work in the Garden be not neglected ! 

J. H. H. 



THE WORK IN THE GARDEN. 



January. 




"Was never earth so white before? 

Till now I never saw the glow 
Of sunset on yon hills of snow, 

And never learned the bough's designs 
Of beauty in its leafless lines." 

— Whittier. 

HE work for the care of the Garden 
and orchard in this month is com- 
paratively small, but nevertheless 
something can be done on a sunny 
day, and the following can be attended to : 

Fruit trees and such parts of the vegetable garden 
as are free from snow, when not too far from the 
house, should be watered with liquid manure. The 
manure beds prepared and made ready, seeds 
cleaned and purchased or ordered; and when but 
little snow is on the ground and the weather severe, 
to attend to the mulching and covering and see if it 
is properly done, and recover where necessary. 

Being a friend of Nature, do not forget to feed 
the little birds and songsters, whose assistance in 
destroying the Garden's harmful insects will repay 
you both by their song and work. 

Your Fall potted plants, such as Hyacinths, Tu- 



The Work in the Garden. 

lips, Azalea, Camellia, etc., are beginning to develop 
and care as to watering same demands your atten- 
tion; as the days are lengthening they require more 
water. 

Your fish pond will require some attention, by 
cutting a sufficient number of air-holes through the 
ice. 

The chicken-coop also requires attention, espe- 
cially on cold nights; same to be kept warm, the 
temperature not allowed to go below .40 degrees and 
the water given them must be tempered. 

To properly manure the fruit trees use diluted 
manure mixed with wood ashes, the same to be 
poured in a trench or holes that are dug around the 
trunk at a distance of about the spread of the limbs, 
never close to the trunk. The best time to manure 
the trees is in the Winter time, especially those that 
have been bearing heavily last Summer and Fall, or 
had a large number of fruit buds. In the Summer 
time July and August is the best time, when they 
are full of fruit. 

The pruning of fruit trees. High stemmed trees 
should generally be cut or trimmed for four or five 
years after planting, that is, until their crowns have 
been shaped and received a certain form. Rapid 

8 



The Work in the Garden. 

growing trees should not be trimmed so often; they 
will sooner be brought to bear fruit, whereas the 
slower growing and heavy bearing fruit branches 
must be well cut clown or out to strengthen the leaf- 
bearing buds, and with it strongly developing the 
wood or branches ; after five years this pruning is 
not necessary, excepting the cleaning out of dead 
branches, which must be cut clown to the healthy 
growth. All sawcuts should be trimmed with a 
sharp knife and covered with tar ; no cutting should 
be made horizontal, and all close to the trunk or 
heavier branch. 

The hot bed. Select a dry place in the garden, 
exposed to the South and where possible protected 
from the North by a fence or wall. The frame is 
constructed of 2 x 14-inch plank, with the sides 
placed 1 }i inches higher, the thickness of sash, and 
protected from decay by tarring them. This frame 
is set with a pitch of about three inches to the 
South, the sash are usually 3x6 feet and where 
several sash are placed together, there must be a 2x2 
inch cleat, let in at the ends, so as to be flush with 
the plank frame, the sides cleated with pieces of sid- 
ing so as to give a perfect rest to the sash. The 
upper end of frame to be set in 3 inches and the 

9 



The Work in the Garden. 



lower end 6 inches in the ground. Matting, boards 
or a double sash is a good frost protection, and bank 
up all around with manure. 



10 



The Work in the Garden. 




"Fair seem these winter days, and soon 
Shall blow the warm west winds of Spring, 

To set the unbound rills in tune 

And hither urge the bluebird's wing." 

— Whittier, 



OUR Tulips, Hyacinths and Narcis- 
sus should now be in full bloom, in 
the flower window of the room, and 
by bringing the potted bulbs from 
the cellar from time to time your blooming plants 
will last the whole month. If the Tulips and all 
the bulb plants are kept in rooms not too warm, 
their blooms will last a good deal longer, and you 
will derive more pleasure from their beauty and 
fragrance. 

The manure bed should be excavated about 
twenty-four inches deep, and can be made of any 
size desired ; it should be filled with horse manure, 
that has been piled for two or three weeks and well 
packed, and care taken that it does not get soaked 
with snow or rain, as it will get heated; it should 
be covered with boards. 

The transplanting of trees and shrubbery in the 
Spring should be carefully done, the main factor 
being the careful taking up of the same, so that 

11 



The Work in the Garden. 

the fine roots are not torn off or damaged. In re- 
ceiving these from the nurseries the principal point 
to observe is that they have abundant fibre roots, 
and if the same seem dried out see that they are 
placed for several hours in a mixture of soil and 
water and placed in the shade. In planting it is 
well that a large quantity of water is used, so that 
the soil will properly fill in around the roots, espe- 
cially when they do not come with a ball of earth. 

To preserve cut flowers for twelve to fifteen days 
change the water daily in the morning and mix 
with the fresh water one or two teaspoonfuls of 
spirits of sal ammoniac, and cut off a small piece of 
the stem each day ; over night place in a cool room. 

The Rubber Tree for room culture requires to be 
planted in two parts grass earth, one-half part leaf 
mold, one-half part clay, three parts clear sand and 
pulverized charcoal. As long as the rubber tree is 
in the state of growth the pot must be kept continu- 
ally damp, and do not water with too cold water ; it 
should be room tempered, and especially protect the 
plant from cold; the leaves should be wiped with a 
dry cloth, sprinkle in Summer time and do not 
place the plant in the direct sun rays. The trans- 
planting should be done in the Spring, before the 
plant begins to bloom. 

12 




The Work in the Garden. 

"The stormy March is come at last 

With wind, and cloud, and changing skies. 

I hear the rushing of the blast 

That through the snowy valley flies." 

— Bryant. 

■\ HIS is the month when "the work in 
the Garden" begins in earnest. The 
first things to be done are those that 
had to be left undone in January and 
February on account of the frost and snow. 

Trees and shrubs can be planted, trimmed and 
manured. At the end of the month the covering 
of the shrubbery and rose beds lifted, if the season 
is rainy it can be entirely removed ; also the time for 
preparing the lawn and seeding can be started. The 
hot bed must be planted and the seeding of the vari- 
ous vegetables can be started, such as lettuce, onions, 
carrots, the different cabbages, cauliflower, celery 
and parsley. 

If coal dust is mixed with the seeds and moist- 
ened while sowing, it will prove a sure and rapid 
method of germinating them. 

Peas can be planted for an early crop, but must 
be protected from the birds and planted in separate 

13 



The Work in the Garden. 

beds. Sweetpeas cultivated for their blooms only 
should never be allowed to go to seed, and care taken 
that they are not sprinkled, not even in the hottest 
weather, but watered at the roots on the ground. 
A good trellis for them is a four-foot chicken fence 
wire well staked and run north and south. Also 
never sprinkle cucumber vines. 

The sowing of radishes can begin, and a crop 
can be harvested every month by sowing the seed 
from Spring until late in the Fall; it is well to 
sow them broadcast and rake them in the soil ; 
there are many good varieties. 

Camellias, Azaleas and Rhododendrons and potted 
blooming plants, generally the forced ones, must be 
sufficiently watered ; the soil should never become 
perfectly dry, because they will lose their buds from 
this cause, and especially Camellias if placed in 
rooms too warm. 

Toward the end of this month the withered potted 
bulb plants, as Tulips, etc., must now be taken out 
of the pots and dried, and preserved until the end 
of October, when they can be planted in the garden, 
where most of them will bloom the following 
Spring; a second forcing of the bulbs is generally 
not successful. 

14 



The Work in the Garden. 

To slip the potted roses in a simple manner, place 
the slips in a narrow glass filled with water and 
put them in the full sunlight; when the roots are 
formed care must be taken in planting, as the roots 
are very brittle. 

The Oleander slips are treated in the same man- 
ner. 

The condition of rose wood to root freely should 
be such as a shoot that has developed a flower ready 
to cut; blind wood can also be used, but must be in 
the same ripened condition. Another way to root 
roses is, when you have done your pruning, in 
Spring, collect up the pieces cut off and place in 
the ground on the shady side of a fence; seventy- 
five per cent should root, and as the cuttings can be 
a foot long less time is required to get them to the 
flowering stage. 

Remove half the covering placed on plants in 
the Fall about the middle of the month. 

Seed down and cover lawns with fertilizer where 
required. It is better done this month than next; 
if we have snow after, all the better. In making 
new lawns on sandy soil have a four-inch layer of 
green-house clay placed about one foot below the 
surface and fill on top with black earth ; it will hold 

15 



The Work in the Garden. 

the moisture better and not burn out so easily, and 
requires less sprinkling. 

In the planting of borders for perennials or 
hardy plants the preparation of the soil for the beds 
should be first thought of, as they will remain where 
once established; they must be dug out about two 
feet and filled with friable soil mixed with one- 
quarter well-rotted stable manure, when they can 
be planted. If the selection of the hardy herbaceous 
plants is intelligently made with a view of con- 
tinuous blooms from early Spring to late in Fall, it 
is one of the ornaments of the garden. 

All evergreen shrubs should be transplanted this 
month. 

For the transplanting of shrubs and hardy plants, 
the Spring is the best time, as many plants which 
are otherwise hardy are liable to be winter-killed 
that have been planted in the Fall ; they thrive bet- 
ter, having the chance to establish themselves in the 
growing season. 

All future pruning should be done after the flow- 
ering season, except such shrubs as bloom on the- 
new wood, which are to be pruned in the Spring. 

Grass should not be allowed to grow about newly 
planted trees or shrubs. 

16 



The Work in the Garden. 

Pretty garden paths are an ornament to any 
garden, and should be laid out with forethought ; as 
to the materials for same, it is a question of utility 
and price; the gravel path, the tanbark path, the 
path of macadam or crushed stone, the grass path, 
or a cement walk, which is now so generally used on 
account of its cleanliness; it can also be colored, 
which is desirable, or the usual board path, which 
should be condemned on account of decay and har- 
boring all sorts of insects and rodents. Along the 
path either flower beds or groups of shrubs or lat- 
tices can be nicely arranged. The gravel, crushed 
stone, and for that matter all the paths should be 
dug about six to ten inches and filled with a three- 
inch layer of cinders to create a perfect drainage 
and frost protection, and then filled in with the ma- 
terial to be used; where tanbark is used it must be 
relaid when too old with new bark, the old bark 
placed in the compost heap makes a good fertilizer. 

Preparing the asparagus bed: Excavate the 
trenches about twenty inches deep and eighteen 
inches wide, placed four feet apart. Put in twelve 
inches of rotted manure well trodden down, fill in 
with four inches of rich soil, place the plants with 
roots spread out about two feet apart, and put four 

17 



The Work in the Garden. 

inches of light, rich soil on top of plants ; this makes 
the bed low for future filling. It is best to select 
three-year old plants, as it takes seven years for 
them to become prolific. The first year there should 
be no cuttings, so as to allow the plants to become 
well established. In the Fall cut off the bush and 
put on four inches of rich soil, and cover with ma- 
nure. Fill up bed with soil until about fourteen 
inches covers the plant. Asparagus should be cut 
just as they come up over the ground and no cut- 
tings made after the first of July, so as not to en- 
feeble the roots. Keep beds free from weeds by 
using rock salt. 



13 



The Work in the Garden. 



flpiU 




"It is as if the trees did call me 
From ceiled room and silent books, 

To see the dance of woodland shadows 
And hear the song of April brooks." 

— Whittier. 

LL that has been neglected during the 
last month must now be attended to, 
especially the sowing of lettuce and 
vegetables, the preparation and seed- 
ing of the lawns, the uncovering of the roses, orna- 
mental trees and shrubbery, care to be taken that 
it is done on cloudy, misty days, not in bright, dry 
weather ; also the tulip beds to be uncovered. With 
roses, etc., which have been laid down with earth 
covering, it is advisable to simply loosen them, and 
after a few days secure them to their supports. Pansy 
plants must be set out. 

The strawberry beds must be cleared and well 
manured, if not done the previous Fall, with any rot- 
ten manure, at the same time the earth between them 
to be loosened and all loose dry leaves removed, on 
old plants the runners taken away. For newly 
planted beds the runners should not be removed until 
August, so as not to weaken the plants while form- 
ing roots. Fruit-bearing strawberry beds should 

19 



The Work in the Garden. 

not be allowed to bear more than two or three years 
for perfect fruitage. 

About the middle of the month the various vege- 
tables are to be replanted, and the peas hilled about 
six inches. Most of the flower seeds can be planted, 
partly in the manure bed, hot bed, or in boxes or 
pots, and the garden generally put in order. 

Flower seeds are divided into two classes : First, 
those that are planted direct in the garden, such as 
Clarkia, Portulaca, etc. Second, those which are 
transplanted later, of which the most varieties must 
be treated in this manner, as Asters, Balsam, Stocks, 
Lobelia, Pinks, etc. The directions how to plant 
these are generally printed on the seed packets, 
which are obtainable from any reliable seed house 
or florist. At the end of the month, before setting 
out the young plants raised in the room, place the 
pots or boxes outside in a not too sunny place for 
a few days to harden them before replanting. 

To remove insects and vermin from palms, wash 
the leaves carefully with water in which a little soft 
soap or Ivory soap has been dissolved, and after 
the vermin have been destroyed sprinkle with clear 
water. This method is good for most all of your 
house plants. 

20 



The Work in the Garden. 

Cauliflower plants can be set out in furrows ; they 
thrive best in new-made ground, and it is advisable 
to transplant same several times to develop and form 
large blooms; during their growth it is well to use 
diluted manure quite frequently; when the flower 
begins to develop bend or break a few leaves over 
the same to keep them white, as sunlight reddens 
them. 

Plant cucumber seeds in pots or hotbed at the end! 
of the month, and transplant about the middle of 
May in the open. 

Twine for garden use can be made to last longer 
and made more durable if placed in a solution of 
alum for a few days. 

Soot in the proportion of one to twenty parts of 
garden soil acts as a good fertilizer, and has the 
advantage of keeping it free from vermin. 

List of April blooming shrubs, color and height 
at maturity : 

Name and Color. Height. 

Wild Black Currant yellow 5 ft. 

Golden Bell (Forsythia) yellow 8 ft. 

Hazlenut 8 ft. 

Filbert (German) 15 ft. 



21 



The Work in the Garden. 



may. 




"Sweets for a hundred flowery Springs 
To load the May-wind's restless wings, 

When from the orchard row there pours 
In fragrance through our open doors 

A world of blossoms for the bees." 

— Bryant. 

HE month of Nature's awakening, with 
great pleasure you observe the bud- 
ding and sprouting in the - garden ; 
everywhere Spring's arrival is appar- 
ent; your bulb bed is blooming, but your work 
should not lag if the fruits are to be garnered. 

The flower beds are to be seeded or planted and 
yet be not too hasty until after the 15th or 20th of 
the month, when the fear of frost is practically past, 
although you must prepare for disappointments, as 
one cold night will destroy your fondest hopes. 

At the end of the month beans, cucumbers, etc., 
can be sown, and time for setting out potatoes ar- 
rives. Hill your cucumbers with the center part 
dished to catch the water around the three or four 
plants, if the season is dry water, but only in the 
morning. 

Butter or green beans, the bush varieties, should 
be planted about the middle of the month ; the seed 

22 



The Work in the Garden. 

should be soaked a few hours in water and planted 
in two rows about twenty inches apart. Beans, the 
same as peas, should never be sprinkled, but water- 
ed; also never pick the beans during rainy weather, 
as it turns the leaves and the plant loses vitality ; do 
not leave any beans on the plant to enhance the new 
crop; pick all, as it forces the blooms for another 
picking. 

The transplanting of the potted plants should be 
begun at the end of this month or the beginning of 
June. After the spring beds have been cleared of 
the Tulips, Hyacinths, Crocus, etc., the flower beds 
will have to be manured again or filled with com- 
post earth, and arranged to suit the individual taste ; 
after planting sprinkle them well, and during dry 
weather daily, especially in the morning hours, as 
long as cool nights can be expected. 

To prepare a bed of foliage plants the bed should 
be excavated about twenty-four inches deep, filled 
two-thirds with leaves and manure well trodden 
down, and covered with ten or twelve inches of good 
soil ; it is well to raise the bed above the surface, as 
the decay of the leaves and manure will sink or 
settle it, and it is policy to wait three or four days 
before planting same, then plentifully sprinkled and 

23 



The Work in the Garden. 

occasionally treated with liquid manure. To gain 
the best results, the plants used for these beds are 
such as Canas, Begonias, etc., and care must be taken 
to place the tall growing species in the center for a 
nice grouping. A gardener will probably have to 
be consulted for this bed. 

List of May blooming shrubs and perennials : 

Name and Color. Height. 

Siberian Almond, single pink 3 ft. 

Spiraea, Arguta, white 3 ft. 

Syringa, Golden-Leaved, white 3 ft. 

Flowering Almond, pink and white 4 ft. 

Flowering Plum (Prunus Triloba), double 

pink 5 ft. 

Currant, Golden-Flowering, yellow 6 ft. 

Japan Flowering Quince, scarlet 6 ft. 

Pink Weigelia, rosy pink 6 ft. 

Josika Lilac, bluish purple 8 ft. 

Syringa (Mock Orange), white, pink and 

rose 10 ft. 

Lilac, purple and white 10 ft. 

Becket's Double Flowering Crab, pink 10 ft. 

Matrimony Vine, mixed 10 ft. 

Siberian Pea Tree, yellow 15 ft. 

Persian Lilac, reddish purple 20 ft. 

24 



The Work in the Garden. 

Nannyberry, white 20 ft. 

Wild Crab- Apple, pink and fruit 20 ft. 

PERENNIALS. 

Bleedingheart, red 3 ft. 

Iris (Fleur-de-lis), varieties 6 in. to 24 in. 

Lily of the Valley, white 6 in. 

Violets 6 in. 



25 



The Work in the Garden. 



June, 




"What is so rare as a day in June? 

Then, if ever, come perfect days ; 
Then heaven tries the earth if it be in tune 

And over it softly her warm ear lays." 

— Lowell. 

T IS still time to prepare the flower beds 
and plant the beds for foliage effects. 
In the vegetable garden the earth 
should be hoed and loosened and kept 
free from weeds ; where the plants have well devel- 
oped the soil should receive liquid manure about 
every two weeks. 

After the 20th of the month Tomato plants can 
be set out. 

To prevent the lettuce from shooting up too rap- 
idly cut the stalk just above the ground about one- 
half through, to prevent the sap from rising too 
quickly; a sufficient run of sap remains to nourish 
the plant and prevent its rapid growth ; with a little 
experience this can be quite rapidly done. 

To prevent garden tools from rusting, melt three 
parts lard with one part rosin, and cover the iron 
parts with a brush or cloth clipped in the mixture. 
June is the bloomer for shrubs. 

26 



The Work in the Garden. 

Name and color. Height. 

Spindle Tree, yellow i ft. 

Barberry, Japanese (fruit), red and yellow. . 3 ft. 

Wolfberry, rose 3 ft. 

Variegated Weigelia, pink 4 ft. 

Cut-leaf Sumach (foliage), green 5 ft. 

Button Bush, white 6 ft. 

Privets (hedge), white 6 ft. 

Red-leaved Rose, pink 6 ft. 

Van Houtte's Spiraea (Bridal Wreath), white 6 ft. 

Glossy Viburnum (Molle), white 6 ft. 

Barberry (purple-leaved) (fruit), yellow. . . 7 ft. 

Barberry (green) (fruit), yellow 8 ft. 

Alder Buckthorn (fruit), white 8 ft. 

Cranberry (fruit), white 8 ft. 

Panicled Dogwood, white 8 ft. 

Sweet Briar Rose, pink 8 ft. 

Golden Spiraea, white 8 ft. 

Wayfaring Tree, pink and white 8 ft. 

Snow Ball, white 10 ft. 

Ninebark, white 10 ft. 

Large Flowering Syringa, white 10 ft. 

Buckthorn Hedges (fruit), white 12 ft. 

Oleaster (Eleagnus augustifolia), yellow... 20ft. 

27 



The Work in the Garden. 

Japanese Tree Lilac, white 25 ft. 

Roses in varieties. 

PERENNIALS. 

Rosy Yarrow 1 ft. 

Iris (Fleur-de-lis), varieties 1 to 3 ft. 

Variegated Gout- Weed, white 1 ft. 

Phlox (varieties) 2 ft. 

Lemon Day Lily, yellow 2 ft. 

Paeonies (varieties) 2 to 4 ft. 

Double Drop Wort (Goat's beard), white. . 3 ft. 

Lark Spur (Delphinium), blue 2 ft. 



28 



The Work in the Garden. 




"Old fields, and clear blue summer days. 
Old meadows, green with grass and trees, 

That shimmer through the trembling haze, 
And whiten in the western breeze." 

— Lowell. 

HE soil of the flower beds between the 
plants must occasionally be loosened, 
especially after a rain, with rake or 
hoe; the earth usually hardens or 
cakes after a dry spell, and plants need not alone 
sunshine, but air also. Do not forget the food, an 
occasional watering with diluted manure brings 
blossoms. All withered blooms are to be removed ; 
with roses this should occur daily, the climbing 
plants attended to and secured. 

In the vegetable garden Endive, Brussels-sprouts 
and Cauliflower are to be planted. Beans and other 
plants hilled and the ground loosened and hoed. 

Mossy spots on your lawn can be hoed out in 
damp weather or dusted with soot, which destroys 

it. 

To sprinkle a garden properly takes a certain 
amount of experience and knowledge. In the months 
of April and May, when danger of night frost is 

29 



The Work in the Garden. 

possible, the sprinkling should be done early in the 
morning; later on the evening sprinkling is decid- 
edly better; as a rule it is not necessary to sprinkle 
too often, but when sprinkling do it thoroughly and 
in such a manner as to resemble a light rain, and 
not alone the leaves and surface, but see that the 
roots get their share. Exceptions to the rule are 
few ; climbers, beans and peas should not be sprink- 
led and when necessary, after a long drought, it must 
be very carefully done. The watering during a 
drought is absolutely necessary for most all plants, 
trees and shrubbery. 

If water for Geraniums is required water good 
not over once a week, as too much water will cause 
them to grow sappy at the expense of flowers. 

In cutting the withered rose blooms, and for that 
matter those of most all blooming plants, the stem of 
the dead flower should be cut down to the next bud 
or flower bearing twig ; clear out all old wood of the 
crowns; through this method the young buds will 
strongly develop and assist the formation of healthy 
twigs and branches, which will, in the course of the 
Summer, form new blossoms and new wood for the 
next season. 

30 



The Work in the Garden. 

To secure the general bloom of a rose tree heavily 
laden with buds without enfeebling the stem too 
much the use of liquid manure once or twice is ad- 
visable. 

Calla Lilies which are placed in too rich a soil 
seldom bloom, but the leaf formation is highly de- 
veloped. To force the bloom place the plants in 
loose grass soil intermixed with broken brick par- 
ticles; they will have smaller leaves, but bloom 
handsomely. 

The Summer pruning of fruit trees, especially the 
dwarf varieties, is of the greatest importance and 
absolute necessity, care to be taken not to break off 
the half ripe fruit while pruning. With heavy 
bearing trees it is well to remove some of the fruit ; 
the most developed certainly are to be left; a prac- 
ticed eye and love for the same will soon find the 
way how to use and where to apply the knife or 
shears. 

Shrubs for July bloomers : 

Name and color. Height. 

Coral-berry (fruit), pink 4 ft. 

Siberian Dogwood, white 8 ft. 

Variegated-leaved (Red Dogwood), white.. 5ft. 
Elderberry (cut-leaved), white 8 ft 

31 



The Work in the Garden. 

Elderberry, white 8 ft. 

Elderberry (golden-leaved), white 10 ft. 

Morrow's Honeysuckle, white 6 ft. 

Bella Honeysuckle, white 8 ft 

Cinquefoil (Potentilla), yellow 3 ft. 

Snowberry, pink 5 ft. 

Elm-leaved Spiraea, white 3 ft. 

Ash-leaved Spiraea (Sorbifolia), white.... 4ft. 

Staghorn Sumach, foliage greenish yellow . . 20 ft. 

PERENNIALS. 

Columbine (varieties) 2 to 3 ft. 

Iris (Japanese), varieties 2 ft. 

Tawney Day Lily, yellow and crimson 3 ft. 

Funkia (Plantain Lily), lavender 1 ft. 6 in. 

Double Pearl Yarrow, white 2 ft. 

Plum Poppy, white 6 ft. 

Rose Mallow (Holly-hock), white and crim- 
son 5 ft. 

Garden Pink (for edging), pink 9 in. 



32 



The Work in the Garden. 

August, 

"Over the tasselled corn, and fields of the twice blossomed 

clover, , , 11 i 

Dimly the hills recede in the reck of the colorless hazes; 
Dull and lustreless, now, the burnished green of the wood- 
Leaves of blackberry briers are bronzed and besprinkled 

with copper; . 

Weeds in the unmown meadows are blossoming purple and 

yellow, , ... , 

Roughly entwined, a wreath for the tan and wrinkles ot 

Summer." 

— Bayard Taylor. 

HE sprinkling must be continued dur- 
ing the dry weather, especially the 
watering for the fruit trees. 

The ornamental flower beds need 
attention, to nip off the shoots and general trimming 
to keep their form. In the vegetable garden the set 
onions taken up and spinach planted. Endive can 
be planted for Fall and Winter use, also Kale. New 
Strawberry beds can be prepared, and the ripening 
fruits picked and gathered. 

Fruit trees in the orchard should be watered, 
especially those that are bearing heavily, and it is 
of considerable importance that the trench or holes 
around them should be well filled with water, so as 
to reach the roots, which will be sufficient for sev- 

33 




The Work in the Garden. 

eral days in dry weather. If liquid manure has 
not been used in July it should be used once or twice, 
if the trees should bear regularly and be proline. 

The following mixture, used for watering flower- 
ing plants, and which will give more vigor tc the 
blooms is very good. Take 2 oz. of sulphate of am- 
monia, 1 oz. of saltpeter, y 2 oz. of lump sugar and 
a pint of water, bottle and tightly cork the mixture. 
For use take 40 to 60 drops of same in a quart of 
water used for watering. This mixture is exception- 
ally good for all bulbous plants that are to be forced. 

A Strawberry bed should be planted toward the 
end of August. Strawberry plants like a strong and 
well-manured, but not too heavy a soil, and on a 
place protected from the afternoon sun. The bed 
should be covered with stable manure and this well 
spaded in, and after a few days planted in cross or 
straight rows twenty inches apart; they should be 
planted quite deep and well sprinkled, and during 
dry spells sprinkled often evenings. In the Fall 
cover bed with about two inches of stable manure, 
which must be spaded in the soil in the Spring. 
There are a large number of varieties, and your seed 
man can give you advice which kind is best for your 
locality. 

34 



The Work in the Garden. 

August shrubs : 

Name and color. Height. 

Rose of Sharon (Althaea), 6 colors. 10 ft. 

Hydrangea Paniculata, white 8 ft. 

Hardy Hydrangea, white 8 ft. 

Bittersweet-yellow (Climber) Trumpet Creeper — 

Scarlet. 

Spanish Bayonet (Yucca), white 5 ft. 

PERENNIALS. 

Chinese Bell Flower, blue 3 ft. 

Japanese Day Lily, yellow 2 ft. 

Oxeye Daisy, white and yellow center 4 ft. 

Goldenrod, yellow 5 ft. 

Goldenglow (Rudbeckia), yellow 6 ft. 

Funkia (Corfulily), white 2 ft. 

New England Aster, deep purple 4 ft. 



35 




The Work in the Garden. 

September. 

"Some days, the rarest 

Of many Septembers, 
When the pulses of air rest 

And all things lie dreaming. 
In drowsy haze steaming." 

— Lowell. 

*\HIS is the harvest month. In gather- 
ing the fruit from the trees the ut- 
most care is to be taken not to in- 
jure the fruit-bearing branches of the 
tree for the coming year ; the fruits should be picked, 
and where this impossible the tree to be shaken. A 
rule for picking fruit : Early ripening fruit should 
not be picked ripe or soft off the tree, but a few days 
earlier and allowed to ripen after storing same they 
become more agreeable to the taste; all late, Fall 
and Winter fruit, as late as possible, and both picked 
in dry weather. 

In the flower and vegetable garden the collection 
of seeds must be made when the weather is dry, 
and carefully dried as they have a tendency to rot. 
Onions taken up and hung up to dry. Endive 
bleached by tying the plants, only so many as are 
required for use; it must be done in the afternoon 
when it is sufficiently dry, because they rot easily. 

36 



The Work in the Garden. 

From the flower beds the sensitive plants are to be 
potted, according to the weather, and the time about 
the middle of the month, and placed under cover; 
also the room plants to be taken in. To prevent 
the soil of potted plants from becoming moldy or 
having the moldy smell, put in while planting 
small pieces of charcoal, it also assists the growth 
and health of the plants. New pots for plants should 
be well soaked in fresh water before planting in 
same; many a plant has been ruined by neglecting 
this. The soot when cleaning stoves and pipes in 
preparation for Winter use should not be thrown 
away. If placd in a vessel and boiling water is 
poured over it, placing about one ounce of soda in 
with the water, will more readily dissolve the soot; 
the mixture should stand about eight days with a 
daily stirring up. The solution gives an excellent 
and effective liquid manure for potted plants. 

To destroy spiders and their nests place either 
pulverized sulphate of iron or copper dissolved in 
water, and brush over the places with this mixture 
where they are likely to nest. 

A little charcoal sprinkled in the bottom of flower 
pots prevents the roots from rotting. 

To preserve rubber hose from getting hard or 

37 



The Work in the Garden. 

brittle cover same with glycerine, which must be 
done occasionally, as it dissolves in water; all oils 
and grease must be avoided, as it disintegrates rub- 
ber. 

Potted and other plants which may be caught in 
a light frost should be set in a cool and shady place, 
sprinkled with cold water and placed later in a 
warmer place, so that the thawing will be gradual 
and the plant cells prevented from bursting. If 
treated in this manner many otherwise lost plants 
can be saved ; the exposure to the rays of the sun or 
an immediate placing of the plant in a warm room 
means sure death. 

The hardy perennial plants in the flower garden 
can now be divided, those that are of several years' 
standing, and replanted. 

Pansies for early spring flowers should now be 
sown in a cold frame, and when large enough to 
handle replant in frame about four inches apart each 
way. See that the frame stands on high ground to 
prevent rotting; leave frame open until cold weather 
sets in. then bank up sides of frame with manure to 
sash ; a double sash is all that is required to carry 
them over the cold weather; open the sash for ven- 
tilation at the earliest approach of Spring, also in 

38 



The Work in the Garden. 

Winter if weather should be mild; plant in their 
flowering quarters by April first. If left in the open 
they do not require very much covering, but put on 
when settled cold weather sets in a thin spread of 
litter or leaf mulching held down with wire netting ; 
this will be sufficient. 

Select and have your Paeonies planted for June 

blooms. 

Gold Fish thrive well in water of about 70 de- 
grees. In changing the water of the aquarium never 
put in colli water, but allow it to stand in the room 
to acquire the same temperature as the water to be 
taken out. 

September blooms : 

PERENNIALS. 
Name and color. Height. 

Sneezewort (Hellenium), yellow 5 ft - 

Sunflower (Orgyalis) , yellow 5 ft 

Boltonia, pink 4 "• 

Windflower (Anemone), purple rose 2 ft. 

FALL AND WINTER EFFECTS. 
(Shrubs and Vines.) 
Panicled Dogwood — Leaves in Fall. 
Hazelnut — Foliage in Fall. 
Sumach — Foliage and seed cone. 



39 



The Work in the Garden. 

Strawberry Tree — Foliage and Berries. 
Japanese Ivy — Foliage and Berries. 
Cranberry — Foliage and Berries. 
Woodbine — Foliage and Berries. 
Wayfaring Tree — Foliage and Berries. 
Nannyberry — Foliage and Berries. 
Japanese Quince — Fruit in Fall. 
Virginia Clematis — Seeds in Fall. 
Elders — Berries in Fall. 
Coralberry — Berries in Fall. 
Bittersweet — Berries in Fall. 
Morrow's Honeysuckle — Berries in Fall. 
Matrimony Vine — Berries in Fall. 
Snowberry — Berries in Fall. 
Wolf berry — Berries in Fall. 
Black Buckthorn — Winter berries. 
Privet — Winter berries. 
Moonseed — Winter berries. 
Sweet Briar Rose — Winter fruit. 
Alder Buckthorn — Winter berries and bark. 
Siberian Dogwood — Winter bark. 



COLORED FOLIAGE. 
Golden-leaved Alder. Golden-leaved Syringa. 

40 



The Work in the Garden. 

Golden-leaved Spiraea. Silver-leaved Oleaster. 

Purple-leaved Plum. Purple-leaved Barberry. 

Variegated-leaved Dog- Variegated-leaved Weige- 
wood. lia. 



CUT-LEAVED AND FINE FOLIAGE. 
Cut-leaved Sumach. Cut-leaved Alder. 

Fern-leaved Sumach Tamarisk. 



SHRUBS FOR SHADY LOCATIONS. 

Lilacs in Variety. Wolfberry. 

Dogwood in Variety. Syringa. 
Privet in Variety. Flowering Currant. 

Honeysuckle in Variety. Wild Currant. 
Hazelnut. Opulent Spiraea. 

Cranberry. Potentilla. 

Prickly Ash. Snowball. 

Viburnum. Japanese Quince. 

Strawberry Tree. 



LOW SPREADING SHRUBS FOR EDGING 

OR TRIMMERS. 
Almond (Siberian). Spiraea (Arguta). 

Spiraea (Elm-leaved). Spiraea (Sorbifolia), ash- 
Spiraea (Bumalda). leaved. 

41 



The Work in the Garden. 



Barberry (Green). Wolf berry. 

Barberry (Thunberg). Barberry (Purple). 

Snowberry. Potentilla (Cinquefoil). 

Adam's Needle. Coralberry. 



FOR TERRACES OR RETAINING EMBANK- 
MENTS. 
Willows in Variety. Sumach in Variety. 

Panicled Dogwood. Matrimony Vine. 

Oleaster. Rosa Humilis. 



FOR HEDGES. 
From 3 to 1 5 ft. high, in order given below : 
i Barberry (Thunberg). 2 Spiraea (Bumalda). 
3 Japanese Quince. 4 Spiraea (V. Houtte) 

5 Privet in Variety. 6 Barberry (Purple). 

7 Barberry (Green). 8 Lilac in Variety. 

9 Syringa in Variety. 10 Honeysuckle. 
11 Buckthorn. 12 Spiraea (Opulent). 

13 Mulberry (Russian). 



TREES FOR STREET USE. 
(Should be planted about 30 ft. apart.) 
American Elm. Sugar Maple. 

Bronze Ash. Cut-leaved Maple. 

42 



The Work in the Garden. 



Carolina Poplar. 
Silver Maple. 
Cottonwood. 
Catalpa. 

Huntington Elm. 
Norway Maple, 



Scotch Elm. 
White Ash. 
Linden. 
Svcamore. 
Hackberry. 
Ash-leaved Maple 
(Box Elder). 



TREES WITH ORNAMENTAL FOLIAGE 



Cut-leaved Birch. 
Hercules Club. 
Rosemary Willow. 
Tree of Heaven. 
Tartarian Maple. 



Laurel-leaved Willow. 
Cut-leaved Maple. 
Acacia. 
Silver Willow. 



WEEPING TREES. 
Weeping Mulberry. Camperdown Elm. 

Wisconsin Willow. Cut-leaved Maple. 

Cut-leaved Birch. Kilmarnock Willow 



TREES WITH COLORED FOLIAGE. 
Geneva Maple. Laurel-leaved Willow. 

Purple-leaved Plum. Sugar Maple. 

Golden Poplar. Silver-leaved Willow. 



43 



The Work in the Garden. 

Bronze Ash. Pyramidal Silver Poplar. 
Schwedler Maple. 

TREES WITH FLOWERS. 

Bird Cherry. Horse Chestnut. 

Tulip Tree. Sycamore. 

Acacia. Wild Red Cherry. 

Hercules Club. Buckeye Horse Chestnut. 

Norway Maple. Double-flowered Crab. 

Catalpa. Native Thorn. 

Wild Plum. American Linden. 

Wild Crab-apple. Red-flowered Horse 

Chestnut. 



TREES WITH FRUIT. 
Wild Plum. Horse Chestnut. 

Hop Tree. Native Thorn. 

Bird Cherry. Russian Mulberry. 

Wild Crab-apple. Butter Nut. 

Canoe Birch. Black Walnut. 

Buckeye Horse Chestnut. Wild Red Crab-apple. 
American Birch. Prickly Ash. 



TREES WITH COLORED BARK IN WINTER. 
Cut-leaved Birch. Blue-barked Willow. 

Red Willow. Purple Willow. 

44 



The Work in the Garden. 

Sycamore. Canoe Birch. 

Golden Willow. . 

EVERGREENS. 
Arbor Vitae (Hedges). European Larch. 
Rocky Mountain Spruce. Colored Blue Spruce. 
Mountain Pine. 



HARDY FRUIT TREES. 
CRAB APPLES. 
Whitney. Hyslop. 

Transcendent. 



APPLE TREES. 
Red Astrachan. Grimes' Golden. 

Duchess of Oldenberg. Northwestern Greening. 
Ben Davis. Wealthy. 

Yellow Transparent. Mann. 



PLUMS. 
German Prune. Hawkeye. 



CHERRIES. 
Early Richmond. 

PEARS. 
Flemish Beauty. Seckel. 

Kieffer. 

45 




The Work in the Garden. 

Ooctober. 

"Beautiful over my pathway 

The forest spoils are shed ; 
They are spotting the grassy hillocks 

With purple and gold and red." 

— Bryant. 

a HE harvesting of fruit and vegetables 
continues, the fruit to be placed in a 
dry storeroom and later on in the 
cellar. Vegetables can be placed in 
the cellar or covered in the manure bed. All potted 
.and pailed plants are to be placed in their winter 
quarters ; it naturally depends upon the temperature 
at this season of the year when to start ; it being our 
Indian Summer, we have usually fine days this 
month, and it will depend upon the more or less shel- 
tered surroundings where the plants are located, and 
will command a certain amount of precaution. 

According to the weather, the covering with 
straw or leaves or mulching of roses, vines and 
sensitive shrubs and trees must be attended to. To- 
ward the end of the month beds can be prepared and 
planted and covered for the Tulip and flowering 
bulbs, the Forget-Me-Nots, Pansy and other Spring 
flowering plants. Also the bulbs for forcing in pots 
attended to. In the orchard the trunks of the fruit 

46 



The Work in the Garden. 

trees scraped with a wire brush to destroy the in- 
sects and worms and washed with lime water. The 
object of scraping the trees is to destroy the vermin 
and the lime water wash to protect the trunks from 
frost, averting the sunrays. 

In the vegetable garden the asparagus bed shaped 
and manured and covered with manure; also cover 
the strawberry beds. 

Various good insecticides can be purchased at the 
seed stores, such as tobacco dust, white hellebore, 

etc. 

Hardy plants can be increased by division of roots 
and planted during the first part of this month ; they 
will generally become well established in their new 
place before cold weather arrives, and all newly-set 
plants must receive a mulch of litter before the win- 
ter weather sets in. 

Shrubs can be transplanted as soon as they have 
ripened and shed their foliage. In moving disturb 
as little as possible their roots, and then have the 
soil thoroughly packed around them. At least a 
third of the tops to be cut away for all transplanted 
shrubs. 

The plants that have been recently potted and 
placed in the room must receive careful attention 

47 



The Work in the Garden. 

now or they will suffer because of the change of con- 
ditions. On every pleasant day open the windows 
and let in all the air and give them as much sunshine 
as possible ; beware of artificial heat, and water care- 
fully; a plant not making growth will require but 
little moisture at the roots, and too much water is 
sure to bring disastrous results. 

As to the use of fertilizers, dormant plants are 
injured by them, growing plants are only in con- 
dition to make use of them, and should only be used 
when plants are starting to grow well and beginning 
to bloom, and don't kill your plants with kindness; 
aim to bring about a healthy growth, not a rapid one, 
as rapidity always indicates weakness. 

Bermuda lilies should be potted low, so that the 
bulb will be near the bottom of the pot; put in 
about three inches of earth, set the bulb in it and 
just cover; when the top shoots up fill it with soil, 
and as it lengthens until the pot is full ; this is done 
because the plant sends out roots above the bulb 
as well as below, and these upper roots are what 
supports the flower stalk. 

To keep plants through the Winter in the cellar, 
as Agave, Oleander, Cactus, etc., it requires a dry 
cellar free from frost ; the plants should not be wat- 

48 



The Work in the Garden. 

ered, as the object is to give them a rest during the 
Winter, and the soil should remain dry, but the 
plants should not shrink or wither entirely; a little 
dampness occasionally is required. All the plants 
that lose their leaves should have them all removed 
before placing in the cellar, in damp sand. The 
Oleanders and Pinks should retain their leaves dur- 
ing the Winter. 

To bleach Endive. During dry weather take up 
the plants with the earth-ball and place upright in 
a box as close as possible, without tying; put the 
box in a dry, dark cellar; in abount ten or twelve 
days they are nicely bleached, without the danger of 
rotting. 

The planting of Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus and 
other flowering bulbs in pots for forcing should be 
done in the following manner about the end of Octo- 
ber: Take some well rotted manure-bed earth or 
mellow soil and fill the pots loosely ; place a handful 
of sand well mixed with charcoal on top and press 
the bulb down, which sets it in the earth firmly; 
then fill around the bulb with sand; this prevents 
the bulb from rotting, which very often occurs. 
Water the pots thoroughly and bury them in the 
manure-bed about ten inches deep, or in a place in 

49 



The Work in the Garden. 

the garden that is protected from too much moisture, 
and cover with straw to prevent freezing so as to take 
them out easily when wanted. In the beginning of 
December take up the pots and place them in a cool 
and dark frost-proof cellar and water from time to 
time ; about the middle of the month bring the pots, 
every other day, in the warm room, but put them 
again in the dark place and as soon as they are well 
forced place them in the window, where the blooms 
will rapidly develop. Or place the potted bulbs in 
a cool dark place in the cellar and leave them there 
until the roots are formed; it will take six to eight 
weeks; it is absolutely necessary that root develop- 
ment precede top growth in order to secure abund- 
ance of flowers. When the pots are filled with roots 
bring them to the light ; if the tops have not begun to 
grow, they can be safely left in the cellar several 
weeks more, and in this way a succession of blooms 
can be secured. 

The Gladiolus, Dahlias and Canna tubers and 
bulbs to be taken up on a pleasant day and dried, 
leaving their roots exposed to the sun ; cover at night 
and expose again the next day; continue until soil 
crumbles away readily, remove old stalks and bulbs, 



50 



The Work in the Garden. 



and store in a dry, cool place secure from frost and 
moisture until Spring. 



HOUSE PLANTS. 



Fan leaved Palm 

(Kentia). 
Areca. 

Boston Fern. 
Asparagus Fern. 
Screw Pine. 



Date Palm (in 

varieties). 
Rubber Tree. 
Pteris Vine. 
Dracoena Lindenii. 
Norfolk Island Pine. 



51 




The Work in the Garden. 

"Saw where in sheltered cove and bay 
The ducks, black squadron anchored lay, 

And heard the wild geese calling loud 
Beneath the grey November cloud." 

— Whittier. 

HE neglected work of the last month, 
such as covering roses, etc., must now 
be done; also the dishing around the 
trees placed in the lawns to be turned 
up. Where new lawns are to be made, or groupings 
of shrubbery contemplated, the soil is to be pre- 
pared by turning it up or furrowing, and the As- 
paragus beds dug out, also where new trees are to 
be planted in the Spring ; the holes are to be dug so 
as to let the frost and air penetrate the ground. 

The covering of roses, shrubs, etc., can be done 
either by protecting them with long straw, which is 
tied around the plant, leaving sufficient air space 
between the branches and straw and where the plants 
are not very numerous. But where there is a large 
bed of roses the better plan is to cover with earth, 
by taking away the ground at one side of the plant 
so as to enable them to be bent down over a kind 
of hill made of earth on the other side, and after all 

52 



The Work in the Garden. 



the leaves and the sappy, easily rotting twigs have 
been removed fasten down with sticks placed cross- 
wise and covered with sand. If pine branches are 
available and placed upon the bed, it is an excellent 



covering. 



The pruning of shrubbery and trees is advisable 
in the Fall time, when the sap has gone down, es- 
pecially those of the early Spring, sap-rising varie- 
ties. There is plenty of work to be done in the gar- 
den in the Spring-time. 

The Lilies of the Valley can be forced for room 
culture by planting the pips quite closely together 
in small pots, so that the points project a little above 
the soil; place the pots in a flat box and fill the 
spaces around and above same with moss, and place 
the box on some not too warm a place so that the 
heat comes from below; sprinkle regularly and 
abundantly; the moss should always remain damp, 
when they will soon begin to grow. As soon as 
the bud is formed take out the pots and place in 
the window, where they will develop nicely. 

To preserve seeds from the ravages of mice and 
birds place them in a vessel and sprinkle with a 
little water; dust in some powdered red lead and 



53 



The Work in the Garden. 

shake well so that the seeds will be covered; after 
drying they can be sown; their germinating power 
does not suffer in the least, but no animal will touch 
them. 

Your house plants must be watched so as to pre- 
vent the depredations of insects, which destroy their 
vitality quite as much as disease, and the use of a 
solution of water and soft soap or Ivory soap insecti- 
cide, and rinsing with clear water after, will keep 
your plants free from insects ; it is easier to keep 
them away than to get rid of them after they have 
once established themselves. 

The tender varieties of roses should have the tops 
cut out and the roots covered with eight or ten inches 
of leaves, as the roots want to be saved. 

The bulb beds must be given a good covering of 
leaves; litter or even hay will do. 

Hollyhocks should be protected with a lapped 
board covering set up above the plants and protected 
on the outside with leaves and litter if they are in 
a bed; they require this protection to protect them 
from decay ; their foliage and leaf-stems are thick 
and soft, and the wet weather of Fall and Spring 
induces the roots to rot from the decay of the 
leaves, holding or retaining too much water. For 

54 



The Work in the Garden. 

the protection of single young plants to keep them 
dry, place boxes over them, banked up with litter 
around ; these coverings should not be removed until 
the Spring rains are over. 

The object of covering the various plants is not 
to keep the frost out of the ground, but to keep it 
there after it has been once frozen, and if Nature 
would give its covering in the form of snow and 
keep it until Spring there would be no necessity of 
covering, but it is alternate freezing and thawing 
by the sun's force that injures the plants by burst- 
ing their cells. Even if tender plants freeze and 
remain so until Spring then no harm will be done, 
therefore do not neglect to cover your plants, to 
keep the sun away from them. 

Boston ferns and most varieties of ferns, where 
the pots are placed in jardiniers, thrive better if the 
space between the pots and jardinier is filled with 
moss and the same kept damp, it prevents the soil 
that comes in contact with the pot from drying out, 
and it does not absorb the water readily, as is gener- 
ally the case with the exposed pots, to the detriment 
of the growth of the ferns. 



L.efC. 



55 




The Work in the Garden. 

December. 

"The snow of deepest silence 

O'er everything doth fall, 
So beautiful and quiet, 

And yet so like a pall, 
As if all life were ended, 

And rest were come to all." 

— Lowell. 

^ HE garden work in this month can be 
but very little on account of frost and 
snow, nevertheless the room culture 
and work in the cellar awaits the 
friend of garden culture. 

The potted plants, after being brought up into 
the room, require careful watering, but not too 
freely. 

The cellar plants must be watered and the dead, 
wilted leaves removed; as soon as the plants, Azal- 
eas, Camellia, etc., begin to sprout and develop buds 
they require more water, and can be brought into 
the warm room as near the sunny window as pos- 
sible, and as soon as the blossoms open they should 
be placed in a cooler place; they will stay in bloom 
for a longer period. 

Should the frost raise the strawberry plants they 
must be pressed down after a thaw. 

56 



The Work in the Garden. 

To prepare dried vegetables, place them from 
thirty to forty minutes in warm water, then place 
them about two hours in cold water, when they are 
ready for boiling; their flavor and color can hardly 
be distinguished from fresh picked vegetables. 

A novel barometer can be made by placing a pine 
cone in a pot rilled with damp sand. With the com- 
ing of fair weather it will open, and indicate the 
rainy weather by closing up. 



FINIS. 



57 




The above cut of a Floral Refrigerator 

was designed by the Author for the store 

of tfie Anderson floral Company, Wabash 

Avenue and Madison street, who make a 
specialty of CUT FLOWERS. Flowers 
shipped to all parts of the country. 



Uaugbatt'sTlOWer Seeds. Are all of the grade known as "Florists' 
Flower Seeds." That means that they are of last season's 
growth. They are put up for professionals men whose liveli- 
hood depends on the worth of them. 

Uaugban'SUegetable Department Are especially selected to meet 
the wishes of Market Gardeners, who are our largest custo- 
mers. They require that their products be both handsome 
and early. They demand the utmost in productiveness. 

Our 0reenbOU$e Department. Requires 60,000 square feet of 
glas to cover it. We do not strive to mail the smallest plant 
for the least money. We grow the plants until they are 
large enough to be of value to you. Our prices are especial- 
ly low on the larger sizes for immediate effects. 

Our Garden €00l$. Comprise the largest variety carried by 
any Seed House in the world. The prices that we give mean 
delivered. This line is sold at a very small profit for the ac- 
commodation of our customers. 



Hie Issue Cbe following Catalogues. 

January 10, Market Gardeners' Catalogue; January 20, 
Gardening Illustrated (our illustrated retail catalogue) June 
1, Price List of Vegetable Plants; September 15, Retail Cat- 
alogue of Bulbs for Fall Planting, Shrubs, Trees etc. Nov. 
15, Special Price List of Holly, Green, etc. These catalogues 
are sent free to intending buyers. 



VAUGHAN'S SEED STORE. 

NEW YORK, CHICAGO. 

14 Barclay Street, 84-86 Randolph Street, 

GREENHOUSES, WESTERN SPRINGS, ILL. 



r 



-\ 




^w^ HE above scene was taken in the Peterson Nur- 
sery which is located on the northwest side of 
the city about seven miles from the court 
house. 
This concern aims to carry in quantity all 
varieties of Trees, Shrubs, Vines, Fruits, and Herbac- 
eous Plants, that are hardy in the West. They are 
well equipped to ship stock, having a private switch 
in their grounds, and large packing and storage sheds. 
Their prices are moderate considering the class of 
stock which they handle, as will be seen by sending to 
them for their superbly illustrated catalogue, which will 
be sent free upon application. Their Landscape De- 
partment is second to none in the country, thereby 
giving them an advantage in planning, simply bebause 
they are well aware of the exact size of every shrub 
and tree usad. They invite csrrespondence and will be 
pleased to answer any questions which may be in 
their power. 



For Private conservatories in which 
Fountains, Rock Grottos, Water-falls, 
Aviaries etc. , can be placed to advant- 
age, with its Ferns and Palm arrange- 
ments, also for Rock work and Garden 
adornments, shrubs, bedding plants etc., 
consult ALBERT FUCHS. He also is 
expert in Floral decorations for all oc- 
casions, Clubs, Weddings, Receptions, 
home or Church work. A visit to his 
large conservatories No. 2045 to 2059 
Clarendon Avenue, Chicago, will repay 
you and any advice will be cheerfully 
given aud estimate made. 



A private conservatory built and 
equipped right is an ornament to any 
house and especially for the lover of 
plants, the same can be built large 
or small, and should have, where 
possible, an eastern or southern 
exposure, we manufactutre them of 
clear Red Cypress same as for the 
large greenhouses, we also have the 
glazed Hot Bed Sash, which can be 
used for most any Garden. 

Upon request we will furnish a 
free catalogue and estimates, address 

3obn & moninger go. 

nit. Blackbawk St. Chicago, Tils. 



Palms and Ferns are the leading specialty of 
the GEO. WITTBOLD CO., Chicago & Edgebrook, 

we have about 6 acres of glass entirely devoted to 
these plants. 

Our Retail Cut Flower Department represented 
by stores 512 N. Clark St. and 1657 Buckingham 
Place is managed by competent help capable to 

supervise and execute any order entrusted to 
them. 

The Decorating Department with headquarters 
at 512 N. Clark St. is managed by Henry Wittbold 
and is specially equipped for large and important 
decorative work. 

The Nursery at Edgebrook can supply shrubs 
and trees, also reliable help for garden work. 



Many 

readers of 

this 

BooK will 

no doubt be 

interested 

in 

worKs 

pertaining 

to 

Landscape 

Gardening 

and allied 
Arts, 

also worKs on Architecture etc,. 
By communicating' with 

G. Broes Van Dort, 

Publisher of this work, these works 
<jcirt he seen at room 

605=218 LaSalle St., CHICAGO. 




Beddding plants for Gardens are car= 
ried in stock by ** * * * * * * 

STOLLERY BROS. 

The lawns and grounds around a 

building and the location of flower 

beds should be inteligently prepared 

for good results, and the same at= 

tended by practical men. Also the 

planting of bedding plants for orna= 

mental effects. We carry a large 

assortment for this purpose and 

estimates and information furnished 

when required by addressing or calling 

at No. 2054 Southport Ave., corner 

of Carmen. *• * * * * *' * *' *' 

Our specialties in cut flowers are 

Roses, Carnations, and Crysanthe= 

mums. ^ *' ^ *• *' * * * * * 
v > 



T 



HE majority of American Suburban Grounds 
are laid out and planted without the aid of 
professional advice. The results are almost 
always unsatisfactory, although often the 
expenditure would have secured most beauti- 
ful results if directed by skilled advice. 

* I do landscape gardening, do it for people of 
exacting taste, make the plans if necessary, and 
superintend the planting. I also furnish first-class 
nursery stock, to carry out such work. By com- 
bining the orders of a great many people, I obtain 
very low prices and let my customers have the 
benefit of them. 

Write for my profusely illustrated General Catalogue 
which gives many hints about gardening. 

W. E. BEAUDRY, 

LandscapeArchitect, Horticultural BuyersAgt. 
Room 504 = 145 La Salle St., CHICAGO. 

TELEPHONE." CENTRAL 4348 

Mr. Otto C. Doerrier, Landscape Architect, is now connected with this office. 




NOTRTH SHORE GROUNDS. 

Laid out by OTTOIE. DOERRIER, Landscape Artist., CHICAGO. 



It is our aim and object at all times, when in- 
teresting- a party to purchase ornamental trees or 
shrubs, to dispose of them around his ground so as 
to produce the most artistic effects. There is so 
much planting in and around Chicago, that can 
be termed nothing but "indiscriminate. " That is, 
no idea seems to exist in the mind of the party 
responsible for the placeing of the stock, but pos- 
sibly to get as much in as little space as possible 
or as little in as large a spree as possible. Even 
then if some idea of landscape work had come to 
the aid of such an one the result would not have 
been so bad. 

We also never fail to impress upon our custo- 
mers the vital importance of prepairing and caring 
for the soil in which planting is to be done. Even 
if the earth for planting should cost as much as 
the stock to be planted, we say it is money well 
spent. Nothing is more discouraging than to plant 
a tree or shrub and see it live but show no signs of 
growth. So much of such planting has been done 
hereabouts. 

Our stock is well grown and nicely matured, 
and if any should fail on being transplanted, we 
guarantee to replace without charge. 

We have two sales grounds, one io the city on 
55th Street, between State Street and Michigan 
Avenue, and the other at Evanston on Church Street 
near Dodge Avenue. We are always happy to 
make appointments to meet visitors at these places. 

DUNDEE NURSERY OF CHICAGO, ILL. 

Tel. Main 2414. Room 400, 125 La Salle Street. 




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